Il pleut
It's said that Lille is the Manchester of France, due to its industrial past. The weather we endured throughout our stay certainly reminded me of that dreary metropolis in the North West of England. Nevertheless, as we dodged the downpours we had all the more time for fantastic food, wine and (surprisingly) artisanal beer.
The photo was taken at our table in the corner of La Part des Anges, a wine bar in Lille's Old Town. I'll be sure to write a little something about the local beers I tried in the city, but right now I'm in VAT return hell.
20 comments:
Why the surprise Jeff, it’s bière de garde country and saison country is just over the border in Wallonia; last time I was there I went to a former porn cinema (and before that it was a brothel) that had become a brewpub. I can’t think of anything witty to say, surprisingly.
I just didn't expect the beer to be so widely available. It wasn't hard to find the truly local stuff at all.
Another thing I noticed was that Affligem is far more common than Leffe, and Kronenbourg was pretty much nowhere to be seen.
lovely photo, looks like a nice spread.
Jeff
that’s good, once I was at Brasserie Thiriez at Esquelbecq and asked Daniel Thiriez if his beer was available in the bar across the road, he pointed at the Leffe sign — that said it all. Stale Affligem is the Devil’s Micturation, but fresh it’s not bad, especially if you’ve got two hours to wait at Charles de Gaulle.
I hope you didn't drag the missus around Lille looking for obscure ticks...
The best thing about Lille is the massive Carre Fore near the station.
Adrian, stale keg beer is shocking, and all to commonly encountered when Belgian beers are served on draught over here. Lille is blessed with a number of unassuming bars that serve just one special beer (alongside stuff like Stella). So I was able to enjoy some classic beers (Chimay and Triple Karmeleit to name two) in perfect condition. If they'd been served in a speciality beer bar in competition with a whole line of taps, I doubt they'd have been nearly as fresh.
Triple Karmeleit is superb and I would like one this very minute with its scent of tangerines and soft oats mouthfeel, but unfortunately I drank the last one some time ago.
A few years ago I did a feature on a Stella Quality scheme for the MA believing that that sort of stuff lasted for months and was surprised to find it didn’t. The power of propaganda eh?
Adrian, keg beer is only at its best if you turn it over quickly. Sure, it doesn't turn to vinegar in a few days like a slow-moving cask ale, but it's best when it's sold quickly. That's why I stopped selling Hoegaarden here (sales weren't high enough), and why after much deliberation I've decided not to install Meantime Wheat (although I will be taking their Helles lager).
Union at the Union in Greenwich is heavenly when fresh, mind you all beer is (I had a pint of Guinness from a new barrel at Welllngton rugby club on Sunday, it was fantastic) — I remember Mark Dorber saying that ideally once a cask is broached it should be sold within a couple of hours so one can appreciate its joy. Sadly a Utopian ideal, unless we have 2.25 gallon casks perhaps?
I don't think Mark Dorber's right, to be honest. Some beers are actually better on the second day after you start serving them - and in those cases a really quick turnover isn't ideal. I think that's true of Landlord, most notably. I've toyed with the idea of switching to kilderkins on that basis, but can't be arsed with the them in my cellar.
Yeah, but I think Mark is a big advocate of leaving beer for a bit longer than is normal, but then I’m not a cellarman, interesting point though, will broach it next week when I see him at the barley wine seminar (you are not coming I see, we have got St John’s Ambulance on standby). Plus point is, you might get some muscles wrestling with the odd kil…
Couldn't agree more with regard to Landlord. Customers are not getting it at its best due to its popularity. An odd conundrum.
Ben
most pale hoppy are best fresh & most medium dark bitters are best the second day. ATJ see you monday
Adrian, I'm an advocate of lengthy conditioning times for some beers (although with others it's a waste of time and possibly harmful). If you tap and vent a cask of Landlord and leave it open for several days, the beer's much better. However I've not tended to leave beers untapped in the cellar for extended periods, which is what I understand Dorber used to do at the Sloaney. I'm not sure that would have any pronounced benefits, but I'm not at all sure.
surely then there’s the issue of oxygen getting in once it is tapped, so the flavour might improve though possibly at the expense of condition. But as I said I’m no cellarman.
Adrian, much as some would like you to believe otherwise, there's no great art to being a "cellarman"...
Of course I open myself up to the accusation that by saying that I demonstrate I'm a dabbler, but those who seek to mystify simple things to big themselves up have always annoyed me - so I enjoy annoying them by removing the veil.
Jeff
I don’t think anyone’s getting annoyed — life is one big dabble anyway.
cheers
A
Order it, deliver it, leave it, tap it,pump it, drink it. Simple, en it.
As a native of Manchester, I take exception to your description of my home town as 'that dreary metropolis in the North West of England'. Still, if you want to keep people away by perpetuating a cliched, outdated image, go ahead: it just means more Holts and Hydes for us. Cheers!
Matt, I frequently hear in defence of Manchester and Leeds that they have a Selfridges and a Harvey Nicks respectively. If the only positive thing people can think of is the opening of a branch of a London department store, I think that speaks volumes. ;-)
PS. I'm just having a lend of you.
PPS. I'M JOKING.
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