The Marquess Tavern - sweet sanctuary

The flat and everything in it seemed to be coated in a thin layer of sticky sambuca. Half-empty cans of lager stood like grim sentinels on unlikely surfaces. Anything that could be construed as a receptacle for ash was filled with cigarette butts. Moving would probably have been wiser than attempting to clean up. We'd emerged from a lengthy bender in which friends and strangers alike had cavorted in our home.

That was the scene that prompted myself and a dazed flatmate to stagger out into the grey, wet world. We sought sanctuary somewhere we hadn't disgraced ourselves in during the last 72 hours. The trail led northwards, away from the ghastly familiarity of Clerkenwell. The hangover shudders and painful flashbacks persisted as we skirted the stagnant New River in Canonbury. Believe it or not, at desperate times like this I make some of my finest pub discoveries.

The Marquess Tavern enjoys a secluded location (32 Canonbury Street, N1 2TB, map, website). Only locals and the hardy urban rambler will chance upon it. It's a fine Georgian pub that's gone gastro in a big way. An almost imposing white dining room offers waitress service and high chairs for Horatio, but you can enjoy a pint in the main bar. Despite being tied to Young's, there's also a guest beer and a handpumped perry on offer. In the fridges there's a good selection of bottled beers from around the world.

Looking around, everyone seemed to be drinking Erdinger from tall glasses. We set about pints of Young's Winter Warmer. It was probably the last time I'll drink that particular ale this year, its season allegedly drawing to a close. The weather doesn't seem to agree.