Birrificio Il Bovaro, Firenze

Florence is a city so rich in culture, it can send an unprepared tourist into a confused stupor known as Stendhal's syndrome. You could visit every year for the rest of your life, and die without discovering all of its treasures. I've visited half a dozen times. However, on all previous visits I've had to go without a decent beer. That won't be a problem anymore: the city's only microbrewery is just a short walk from the Ponte Vecchio.

Il Bovaro sits in the shadow of the mighty Porta San Frediano, squatting just outside of the old city walls. Needless to say, the building is centuries old. Inside, the vaulted tap room is decorated in rustic style. The shiny brew kit is fully on display. Bags of malts from Weyermann of Bamberg are piled just feet away from where diners and drinkers are seated.

The pint-sized brewer Daniele Venturi (great name) appeared shortly after we arrived. He's friendly and enthusiastic, but doesn't speak English. Time for the pidgin Italian I've picked up through osmosis to kick in, then. He set the place up in 2000 with his brother, Titiano (even better name). Apparently the brewery was named for his brother's dog.

Daniele eagerly professed his immense fondness for aromatic hops, and his curious creation Titan (6.3% abv) reflects that. Raising a tall glass of this dark amber beer, Amarillo is very evident on the nose and palate, with roasted caramel providing a pleasant backdrop. Kiki, a 4.5% abv lager, was more enjoyable, a fresh-tasting helles with a creamy head and floral aroma. A third brew, a strong ale called Axel, was unavailable on our visit.

The beers at Il Bovaro aren't going to set your world on fire, but the welcome is warm and the hearty, inexpensive food a fine accompaniment to freshly brewed beer. Next time Florence calls me, I'll be back.

Information:

The brewery is at 3 Via Pisana in Florence, very close to the river on the Altrano side (website). It's open every day from 7pm until 1am (2am on Friday and Saturday).