Monday, 25 February 2008

The best pub in Britain

According to CAMRA, it's The Old Spot Inn in Gloucestershire (website). The pub is situated in Dursley, a market town near the Severn. The official announcement is here.

As I said when the four finalists were announced, this contest seems to reinforce the view that a good pub is one which caters exclusively for those who consider themselves "traditionalists". To be good, it seems, you have to conform to a certain stereotype. For example, in this Times article, the landlord's comments suggest a certain hostility toward fine dining in pubs. That doesn't sit easily with me.

Nevertheless, The Old Spot looks like a cracking boozer. I hope to visit it one day.

8 comments:

Tandleman said...

Seems to me he has the balance just right. You want fine dining as opposed to good hearty pub food? Then go to a restaurant.

Stonch said...

That's precisely the attitude that I'm uncomfortable with.

Why can't a pub offer the very best food? "Gastropubs" (I hate the term but use it for convenience here) are very popular for a reason.

This idea that pubs should be "no frills" establishments devoted to swilling beer, with food and wine mere afterthoughts and music an unwelcome intrusion, seems to me to be a fairly modern concept. Pubs like that have their place, but so do others.

Mike (Pint of Ale) said...

I'm with Stonch on this one - it's dangerous to focus on one narrow definition of what a "pub" should and shouldn't be. I'm a big fan of the no-frills, no-food, spit-and-sawdust boozer. I'm a big fan of the traditional pub that serves pie and chips. I'm a big fan of the pub that's all gleaming air conditioning pipes, stripped furniture and fancy food.

As long as the landlord prides himself on keeping a decent beer and serving the best ales in the best possible way then the look, the feel, the menu of the pub becomes insignificant.

We all visit different establishments depending on our mood at the time and we should celebrate the range of establishments on offer and not deride pubs for daring to be different.

Bushwhacker said...

I agree with the points about diversity, and for me the main thing is the beer or cider, but if all other things are equal then I would prefer a no-frills pub. The Pub of the Year decision is down to the judges, presumably using the same guidelines as when I judged in our branch and we chose a foody, fine-dining pub.

Boak said...

I never understand the traditional hatred of pubs that do food. I tend to dislike "gastropubs" because the beer is often an afterthought, but all things being equal, I'd definitely rather be somewhere where I can wash the beer down with some decent grub.

Germany gets it right here - in most places you can have everything from a simple snack to a three course meal, in a relaxed beery atmosphere.

I think the hatred of food pubs is more to do with the traditional British hatred of people in them (families) than the mere fact they dare to serve food.

ATJ said...

Stonch
I interviewed Steve Herbert the other week and he certainly doesn’t look down his nose at serving food — he’s a trained chef. Locally sourced food is important. Here’s a quote from my notes: ‘our times for food are 12-8 during the week and 12-4 on Fridays and Saturdays, the reason we do these times is that we are too busy to do food after those times; even though we are proud of our food it is always second fiddle.’ He also talked about ‘upping the standard of the food’ — having been there a couple of times, I would say that he’s got the balance right. I do hate the catch-all phase ‘gastro-pub’, it seems that anyone who can do stripped wood surroundings and get in Brake Bros calls themselves that these days. It reminds me of the times when opportunistic landlords would call those fake Irish smoothflows ‘real ale’ cause of the diddy handpump. And the worse thing is when you go into a pub and all the tables have knives and forks on them and at the bar they ask if you are eating. Food and beer are compatible, but I think maybe you were a bit too sensitive about Steve’s remarks.

Stonch said...

ATJ, I think I may have misfired a little in this instance. Having said that,I do think there is an issue regarding some people's attitudes to food and pubs. Remember, just last week we has the story about Tom Wood's pub in Market Rasen, where they proudly trumpet the fact they "definitely won't be serving food".

This seems to be based on assumptions about what a "traditional pub" should be which are unduly restrictive and without historical basis anyway.

Ted said...

Quite right boak - I've been to many lauded gastro-pubs in London and the beer choice rarely matches that of the menu.

From what I remember of my last visit to the Eagle in Farringdon about a year ago - the alleged grandaddy of gastropubs - the beer choice was lousy (Bombardier possibly - and not very good condition as well).

When it first opened in the 80s, it used to have a wonderful choice of Shefford ales and an above average food menu.

My other gripe with some gastropubs is that they're don't seem happy when you're only drinking and taking up their table space.

My local when I'm in Darlington, Number Twenty-2, gets it right in this respect - good food available at one end of the pub but 10 beers on tap. It can be done properly if a little thought is put into it...

Never trust people who think beer subdivides into "lager", "bitter" and "Guinness". Never trust people who say they like chain bars because "they always know what they're getting". Never trust people who list "socialising" as an interest on their CV. Never trust people who can't give a straightforward answer when you ask them where they're from. Never trust people who invite you on skiing trips when you have never expressed any interest in the sport (or indeed their company). Never trust blokes who try and ban the c-word from conversation because their bird doesn't like it (just say it more). Never trust people who "don't like to lose control". Finally and most importantly, never, ever trust people who don't drink beer, unless they have a very good excuse - and for the avoidance of doubt, being an uptight, miserable sod is not a very good excuse.